We awoke early as has become our norm, Jenni and I quietly change and pack our gear in the dark saving the noisiest bits such as stuffing the sleeping bag in the stuff sac for the hallway outside the main sleeping bay.
Once most the packing is done we sit on the floor or a chair if it is available and bandage the few blisters we have. Jenni has thankfully only formed one blister on her little toe. I however have been fighting them off on both feet. I fear that day that I lose the battle and they bubble up into actual blisters but for now have been preemptively taping them.
Not all alberques have breakfast but thankfully this one does. We went upstairs to the kitchen/dinning area and on the table is a place setting that consists of a cup placed on a saucer and on the side is a knife and spoon. Coffee is available on the counter and in the middle of the table is french bread cut into 2 inch pieces as well as a plethora of spreads for the bread.
When we sat down and started to drink our coffee an old lady came into the room asking for cereal. Both Jenni and I immediately identify her as American for only an American would ask this. We just smirk at each other and introduce ourselves to the lady to break the awkwardness of her question and draw attention from all the Europeans that were contemplating her cereal inquiry.
We finish breakfast around 6:15, brush our teeth, don our packs and head out to the street. It is still early so there is a chill in the air. The seem empty feeling we had in Pamplona is present as we walk out of town between the tall buildings and empty streets that were bustling with activity a few short hours earlier. The trash from the festivities last night still cluttering the gutters. In the streets an occasional cat can be seen wondering looking for scraps.
The walk to Najera borders a lake and as we reach the edge if it some kids can be seen fishing. Today was special because we also see a goose with her goslings. Walking with the goose is a couple ducks.
The scenery on the trail is very picturesque. There are vineyards as far as the eye can see. There is also many other fruit trees but Jenni keeps stopping me from eating them. The few times I get to try an odd berry I end up spitting it out and get Jenni inquisitively asking me what I did.
Today was the longest hike we have done to date, 18.7 miles, and we arrived to Najera feeling excited and very exhausted. We couldn't wait to get off our feet and lay down for a quick siesta.
Our plans abruptly changed when we arrived to town and there was a celebration going on. The band was playing some sort of spanish music with a lot of horn instruments. There were dozens of rows of people locked arm and arm dancing down the street. There hundreds of people dancing and as they crossed us a couple locals grabbed us by the arm and locked step with us. We would dance 3 steps forward and 2 steps back. The atmosphere was festive and even though it was hot there were kids squirting water in the air and adults throwing wine. All the teenagers looked as though they were in a giant mosh pit and their shirts were torn and they had writing all over their bodies in marker.
We had a blast and everyone was so friendly to us. We wanted to stay with the festivities but after a while we worked our way through the crowd to the Alberque.
After cleaning up we went back to the celebration but it had gone into siesta. So we sat with our pelegrino friends and enjoyed the best sangria in the world. For 9 euro we got a pitcher of it that served 4.
We sat with the California crew: Buzz and his daughter Erin, Erin's boyfriend Jordan and Jordan's brother Dylan. Later we also had multiple other Camino family members join us as we toasted the end of a great day on "The Way".
Jenni and spent much of the day reminiscing about Clif and wishing we were with our family today as everyone paid there respects. He has made such an impact on us as we walk on. Love you Clif.
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Sansol to Logrono
We are amazed by what works for people. We have seen walking shoes, sandals, hiking boots, running shoes, and trail running shoes. We have seen people with hiking stick and no sticks. We have seen people with packs of all sorts of sizes and weight and we have seen people paying to ship their gear ahead to the next town.
Eva and Krystal are two friends we got to know better last evening. Eva is our intelligent German friend and Krystal we just met is working for Panera in Boston, originally from Detroit. We are inspired by Krystals efforts to make her own way on the camino even though she parted ways from her main group of friends she planned the camino with. Krystal, Carson and I found it fun exchanging stories about how we met our significant others and she tells a very cute one about her boyfriend David.
Our walk was nice today. We saw many incredibly beautiful views through hills of grapes and wheat and found the wind turbines of the camino norte. I love the Spanish countryside!!!!!!
We stopped in a bigger town along the way called Viana. It was a superb stop for seeing the hustle of a Thursday within a town before siesta. The markets were open for us to get aceitunas and manzanas. We decided to let our feet rest which was about an hour of relaxing the body. We found it also a spot where we ran into friends Guido and Ryan who were posted at the cafe waiting for the arrival of their friends from further back on the way. We are impressed with the group of 3 who find ways to connect, but are each experiencing a different camino. Josh who is rediscovering himself after a break up and has struggled to walk since day 1 and has now a hurt ankle and broken toe. Allie who has pushed through carrying her laptop computer has hurt ankles and aching feet. We havent seen her In a day or so, but she is making her way with an amazing attitude. Ryan, is often running though the camino usually to touch base with the others and has a giant pack. He also has been picking up a rock each day to represent his life burdens and he will release them at the high point on the camino. He has left his old life in the past and is fully living the camino using only forward motion.
As we walked our way into Logrono, we decided the church albergue with a communal dinner was the way to go. Funny thing is we were nervous about it because when we arrived, it seemed full or closed. We had knocked on the door and it was locked up. We saw a way to ring the doorbell for peregrinos. We were let in immediately and they had open beds and right away we saw our teacher friend Susanne. It is a great feeling to see friends along the way. This albergue was a donation albergue and included mass, a blessing for pilgrims, the communal dinner and breakfast. We got cleaned up after our walk and took an hour to grab a glass of cold beverages and a tapa on Laurel street, recommended by the group of 4 Spanish ladies we kept seeing the last few days. Most bars weren't open until later but we found one on the corner to relax at for a bit.
It was really fun and it felt nice to help with the dinner preparation. Carson cut watermelons and I helped with salads. We were prepping for 35 people to eat together. After meal prep we went to Spanish Catholic mass. Carson and I both volunteered to read at mass and in English along with a bunch of other readers in different languages. It was tough to follow the mass not being Catholic and trying to understand the priests speaking. The church is absolutely beautiful. It has shells on the altar and they did a special prayer for the pilgrims at the end of the mass.
We went back to the albergue for dinner. It was salad bread and a delicious stew with garbanzo beans. Hit the spot. After dinner, there was an invitation to be part of a special private pilgrims blessing back at the church where they read in multi languages and sang to us. We also got our passport stamped at this time. It was nearly 10pm by this time and we still had to go back and do dishes from dinner. That is late for a camino walker...
We feel very lucky to have been part of this amazing experience at the church of Santiago albergue. The food, bed and commraderie we were part of made us feel very prepared mentally and physically for our hardest day to come on the camino the following day. We will definitely do this again.
Saturday, June 29, 2013
Clif
Jenni and I have dedicated our walk to Clif and Jenni's Grandma as well as other we have lost. Along the way we stopped in various churches to light candles and say a prayer for them. We feel as if they are with us on this walk and their spirit carries us through the blisters and aching feet.
Clif was laid to rest today and though we could not be there for the service we could feel his presence with us now.
There are few people you will come across where the moment you meet them it is as if they have always been your best friend. Clif was that type of guy. His infectious laughter, love of sports, and passion for others define who Clif was.
One of the things Clif was known for was his hospitality. He made it his mission to ensure everyone was well fed and having a good time. From being formally titled as Snack Master during the trip to Utah where he fell for the love of his life to making the non-sports person like me enjoy every game I went to with him. Clif was a master at finding just the right thing to ensure everyone had what they needed; a joke, snack, or a shoulder to lean on.
When I think of ways to honor Clif the best one I can think of is that we make it a point to stay in touch and have fun together. I can share many stories about Clif as can everyone here, but what I think he would want more than me reminiscing all my best memories to you all right now would be that we make a point to reconnect with one another and share our stories together.
We love you Clif. Your presence is missed but your spirit will be with us always.
Clif was laid to rest today and though we could not be there for the service we could feel his presence with us now.
There are few people you will come across where the moment you meet them it is as if they have always been your best friend. Clif was that type of guy. His infectious laughter, love of sports, and passion for others define who Clif was.
One of the things Clif was known for was his hospitality. He made it his mission to ensure everyone was well fed and having a good time. From being formally titled as Snack Master during the trip to Utah where he fell for the love of his life to making the non-sports person like me enjoy every game I went to with him. Clif was a master at finding just the right thing to ensure everyone had what they needed; a joke, snack, or a shoulder to lean on.
When I think of ways to honor Clif the best one I can think of is that we make it a point to stay in touch and have fun together. I can share many stories about Clif as can everyone here, but what I think he would want more than me reminiscing all my best memories to you all right now would be that we make a point to reconnect with one another and share our stories together.
We love you Clif. Your presence is missed but your spirit will be with us always.
Estella to Sansol
We started our day very early today after a night of a room full of loud squeaky bed mattresses. I woke around 2am thinking it was closer to 6am. Went back to sleep until 5am so we could get a good start. It can be tricky to sleep with 20 other people right next to you...
We were invited to brekkie with our Californian friends, Buzz, Erin, Dylan and Jordan. Jordan is a cook and was excited to share his eggs and bacon with us. Erin is his girlfriend, Buzz is his girlfriends dad and Dylan is his brother. We have enjoyed getting to know each of them.
It has been interesting getting to see all types camino walkers. Walkers. Taxiers. Busers. Gear aheaders. Bikers. Short termers. Seasonalers. We feel the only way to do the camino is to walk, but many have a different idea what that means. Some people end up on the camino after many miles walking other places. Some have walked already 50 miles before now.
We made a pitstop to Los Arcos which is the finale according to our guidebook today. We stopped for our first sangria and then made the rest of the the hike to Sansol.
We are staying in a very small albergue of 14 people. 2 of them from Norway, 2 from Italy, 2 from Spain, 2 from Germany and 3 Americans. We have been enjoying the entire afternoon at the one local bar. This is by far the smallest town I have ever known.
Puente la Reina to Estella
We woke up to a quick delicious Spanish coffee.
Roman road and bridges are over 2000 years old. Walking over them sometime is a challenge. They are bricks and rocks and uneven on our feet... some of them and others are really well kept. What is amazing is that they are so old and still here and being used. We love the effort made with Spanish roads too. Many of them have nice tiles and are extremely well kept. It is humbling to be using them.
We started the day on our own, but found many of our friends along the walk. Allie and Ryan from Oregon and Susan entertained us for the second half of the walk and we all ended up at the same albergue for the night. It was fabulous to relax and walk around together, and a group of us planned an amazing Italian dinner of salad, spaghetti and meatballs and bread. Jonathan found the cheapest rosado of the trip, 1.30€ for a bottle. Francesca from Italy was the lead chef and amazed us all.
The city of Estella is very nice. We sat in the plaza and each took a 30 minute power nap with the pigeons, kids playing and adults socializing.
Basque land is interesting as there are many English quotes around town asking for independence from Spain. There has been an improvement in the battle as the Spanish government has given autonomy to them through inclusion of both Spanish and basque languages in schools and signage around town. The language is very different, but most people we have met along the way speak both.
Larrasoana to Pamplona
We made today a shorter camino than others to rest and recover our feet. During our first two days, we were challenged by the terrain and our bodies getting adjusted to wearing a pack while climbing and descending.
After an interesting night of sleep in the ball court gym, Carson and i were overly motivated to find the albergue and get in line. We ended up being the first two bunks for the night in Jesu, Maria, a refuge attached to the church.
Carson has done an incredible job speaking Spanish when ordering vino, cerveza and tapas. Its been fun watching his language immersion help his ability to communicate.
So far, Pamplona is one of my favorite places to be. We love window shopping, the food, history and people watching.
In Pamplona, we reunite with friends who we have met along the way, but miss others who had to travel slower. We are sad to say our firet goodbye to friends David, and Lynny, who were heading north to see the camino norte. We may see them again during the feast of Santiago.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Pamplona to Puente la reina
After an amazing night in Pamplona Jenni and I were up early and left just after the sun rose high enough to light the streets.
Walking through Pamplona that early in the morning gives an interesting look into the city. Just a few hours earlier the city was alive with every bar open and people were drinking their wine and eating tapas while sitting on the stone street outside the doors. Age was not an issue as there were people as young as 16 and others old enough to be their great grandparents all hobnobbing together.
The abandoned streets were a bit surreal as the echoes from the night before faded into the sunlight.
When we left the Alberque we were among the first to go. We had learned our lesson on the gym floor the night before and were bound and determined to get to the next city in time for a bed without having to sacrifice stopping to take pictures.
The walk was as picturesque as ever. The views of the valley opened up to show the mountain range ahead. We could see a ridge about six miles ahead. On the ridge were dozens of windmills and between us and them were rolling hills planted with wheat that was just starting to turn a golden brown.
Along the way to the windmills we came across James from Ohio. We had met him the day before and enjoyed listening to him talk about his studies in India. His pace was a bit quick and after a few picture breaks he pulled ahead.
When we made it to the top of the ridge we were greeted with an amazing view of the valley on either side of it. In the distance behind us Pamplona stuck out as a reminder of where we came from and in front of us on the other side of the ridge we could see where we had to go.
On top of the ridge was the pilgrim monument. It held the 1/2 inch steel cut out images of pilgrims made to symbolize everyone that has come through this way.
On either side of the pilgrim monument we could hear the enormous blades of the windmills cutting through the air above us The generators were humming with electricity. The wind was so strong that we could hardly stand in one place.
We walked on and stopped at a cafe for lunch in a small village along the way. It was a welcome relief for our aching feet after having climbed up the ridge on one side and down on the other. Surprisingly both of us realized the uphills were preferred even though they tired us they also made us stronger. The downhills slowed us more than the uphills because of the fear for slipping on rocks and the aching joints caused by the sharp pounding of our feet against the ground aided by gravity.
At the cafe we sat down and ordered a coffee then took out our bread, cheese, and salami. This meal combination has already become a staple meal for Jenni and I. While eating we were joined with two members of our Camino family. Eva from Germany whom we met a day earlier having a beer and coffee for breakfast. We also met Joey the freshman student from Iowa that is attending Jenni's rival school St. Johns in MN.
We enjoyed the conversation and through it Joey taught us am important lesson of the Camino. Getting from point A to point B is not the primary objective. Without this lesson we would have not considered taking the road less traveled. Joey told us of a Templar Church that even though it would add an additional 3 kilometers to our route it would be a spectacular and inspirational visit. There was a pilgrims hostel attached to it that we considered a good place to stay if there was room.
The route leading to the church was lined with fields covered in plastic. We learned that under the plastic was crops of asparagus. This explained why on either side of the road there was so much wild asparagus it grew like weeds.
We arrived at the church just after 1 in the afternoon. Fortunately the lady working there had not gone on siesta yet. The however had and we weren't allowed to see the inside. It was a magnificent round building made of stone surrounded by an intricately carved stone fence. Walking around this fence in bare feet seven times has been foretold to heal pilgrims feet. We did not know of this spiritual power till later that night but Jonathon, a member of our family from Australia, claimed it was a bit uncomfortable on the rocks but it did also massage the feet a bit.
Behind the church was a row of cherry trees that were just beginning to ripen. This was a welcome consolation when we were informed that the hostile was no longer in operation.
After eating our fill of cherries we walked on with Joey towards town. While walking and talking we misread the map and took a wrong turn. Having realized this halfway up a steep hill we resolved to bush whacking through a vineyard and across a cornfield. The corn was up to our ankles and afforded us a view into country life that we would not normally have seen.
When arrived at Puenta La Reina we walked through the Main Street on centuries old cobble stone where the buildings on either side were so close that any American SUV would have trouble fitting between. At the opposite end of town from where we arrived stood a spectacular bridge built by the Romans. One couldn't help but be humbled by the engineering marvels the ancient Romans built that still stood thousands of years after being constructed.
We choose to stay at a private Alberque that was 400 meters up a steep hill. While climbing the hill one walker with a sore knee was walking backwards and in Spanish told us the road was too steep for her aching knees and she was going to go to the municipal Alberque in town.
The Alberque was nothing like any we had stayed at this far. It reminded me of a KOA that we would see in the states with its cabins and swimming pool. The pilgrims area was still a large room filled with bunk beds sectioned off in cubicles of four bunks per.
That night Jenni and I met with members of our Camino family for dinner. This was our first dinner where we were the only Americans. At the table we were joined with Jonathan from Australia, Christina and Ana from Portugal, Francesca and Andreas from Italy, and new to our group was Patrick and Tamara from Great Britain. It was here that we were reminded of the spirit of camaraderie that one could only receive on the Camino. We shared stories from the trip and our lives. It did not matter that the food was mediocre at best because the company made the night one that we would not trade for anything.
Walking through Pamplona that early in the morning gives an interesting look into the city. Just a few hours earlier the city was alive with every bar open and people were drinking their wine and eating tapas while sitting on the stone street outside the doors. Age was not an issue as there were people as young as 16 and others old enough to be their great grandparents all hobnobbing together.
The abandoned streets were a bit surreal as the echoes from the night before faded into the sunlight.
When we left the Alberque we were among the first to go. We had learned our lesson on the gym floor the night before and were bound and determined to get to the next city in time for a bed without having to sacrifice stopping to take pictures.
The walk was as picturesque as ever. The views of the valley opened up to show the mountain range ahead. We could see a ridge about six miles ahead. On the ridge were dozens of windmills and between us and them were rolling hills planted with wheat that was just starting to turn a golden brown.
Along the way to the windmills we came across James from Ohio. We had met him the day before and enjoyed listening to him talk about his studies in India. His pace was a bit quick and after a few picture breaks he pulled ahead.
When we made it to the top of the ridge we were greeted with an amazing view of the valley on either side of it. In the distance behind us Pamplona stuck out as a reminder of where we came from and in front of us on the other side of the ridge we could see where we had to go.
On top of the ridge was the pilgrim monument. It held the 1/2 inch steel cut out images of pilgrims made to symbolize everyone that has come through this way.
On either side of the pilgrim monument we could hear the enormous blades of the windmills cutting through the air above us The generators were humming with electricity. The wind was so strong that we could hardly stand in one place.
We walked on and stopped at a cafe for lunch in a small village along the way. It was a welcome relief for our aching feet after having climbed up the ridge on one side and down on the other. Surprisingly both of us realized the uphills were preferred even though they tired us they also made us stronger. The downhills slowed us more than the uphills because of the fear for slipping on rocks and the aching joints caused by the sharp pounding of our feet against the ground aided by gravity.
At the cafe we sat down and ordered a coffee then took out our bread, cheese, and salami. This meal combination has already become a staple meal for Jenni and I. While eating we were joined with two members of our Camino family. Eva from Germany whom we met a day earlier having a beer and coffee for breakfast. We also met Joey the freshman student from Iowa that is attending Jenni's rival school St. Johns in MN.
We enjoyed the conversation and through it Joey taught us am important lesson of the Camino. Getting from point A to point B is not the primary objective. Without this lesson we would have not considered taking the road less traveled. Joey told us of a Templar Church that even though it would add an additional 3 kilometers to our route it would be a spectacular and inspirational visit. There was a pilgrims hostel attached to it that we considered a good place to stay if there was room.
The route leading to the church was lined with fields covered in plastic. We learned that under the plastic was crops of asparagus. This explained why on either side of the road there was so much wild asparagus it grew like weeds.
We arrived at the church just after 1 in the afternoon. Fortunately the lady working there had not gone on siesta yet. The however had and we weren't allowed to see the inside. It was a magnificent round building made of stone surrounded by an intricately carved stone fence. Walking around this fence in bare feet seven times has been foretold to heal pilgrims feet. We did not know of this spiritual power till later that night but Jonathon, a member of our family from Australia, claimed it was a bit uncomfortable on the rocks but it did also massage the feet a bit.
Behind the church was a row of cherry trees that were just beginning to ripen. This was a welcome consolation when we were informed that the hostile was no longer in operation.
After eating our fill of cherries we walked on with Joey towards town. While walking and talking we misread the map and took a wrong turn. Having realized this halfway up a steep hill we resolved to bush whacking through a vineyard and across a cornfield. The corn was up to our ankles and afforded us a view into country life that we would not normally have seen.
When arrived at Puenta La Reina we walked through the Main Street on centuries old cobble stone where the buildings on either side were so close that any American SUV would have trouble fitting between. At the opposite end of town from where we arrived stood a spectacular bridge built by the Romans. One couldn't help but be humbled by the engineering marvels the ancient Romans built that still stood thousands of years after being constructed.
We choose to stay at a private Alberque that was 400 meters up a steep hill. While climbing the hill one walker with a sore knee was walking backwards and in Spanish told us the road was too steep for her aching knees and she was going to go to the municipal Alberque in town.
The Alberque was nothing like any we had stayed at this far. It reminded me of a KOA that we would see in the states with its cabins and swimming pool. The pilgrims area was still a large room filled with bunk beds sectioned off in cubicles of four bunks per.
That night Jenni and I met with members of our Camino family for dinner. This was our first dinner where we were the only Americans. At the table we were joined with Jonathan from Australia, Christina and Ana from Portugal, Francesca and Andreas from Italy, and new to our group was Patrick and Tamara from Great Britain. It was here that we were reminded of the spirit of camaraderie that one could only receive on the Camino. We shared stories from the trip and our lives. It did not matter that the food was mediocre at best because the company made the night one that we would not trade for anything.
Monday, June 24, 2013
Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña
Today was an interesting day. The night before when we arrived in Roncevalles over dinner and after a few glasses of wine we made arrangements with our pilgrim friends for breakfast. Our group was later named by a fellow pilgrim down the way as "The Breakfast Club" a reference to one of his favorite movies.
None of the restaurants near our Alberque were open so after starting a bit late our group moved out in the drizzling rain to the next town. Our aching feet and the poor weather could not dampen our spirits. We shared stories and laughter all the way as the time seemed to fly by.
Upon arriving to town Jenni noticed an almost full bottle of vodka sitting outside. This was our first clue that there was a party the night before. Our suspicions were confirmed a few short steps later when we stumbled upon the party still in progress.
The young men with blood shot eyes and drinks in there hands were still shouting at one another and having a good time. As we maneuvered our way to the one open cafe it was packed with patrons from the party in town and fellow pilgrims.
Jenni used her amazing skills in Spanish to learn they were celebrating their towns Saints Day. While Jenni was learning about the towns founding Saint we were welcomed with our first spanish hello that consisted of kisses on the cheeks. I was not to excited about a drunk guy kissing Jenni on the cheek but with alcohol on his breath he asked permission and then greeted me the same way. In all the chaos of a crowded cafe that had people tripping over one another the locals and pilgrims still mixed well and enjoyed the atmosphere.
The rest of the walk for the day was over rolling hills that had stunning views of the valley below.
The late start combined with our love of the view put us in a position where we were almost the last ones left on the pilgrimage between the two towns.
Being in the back if the pack has its advantages in that we felt like we were the only ones on the trails. The problem was that when there was no one to follow and it is easy to lose your way.
Jenni and I came to a point on the trail where there was a sign in Spanish that stated pilgrims need to exit. There were three big stones blocking the road in front of us and to the right we could see that there looked to be an old Camino sign that was decommissioned. There was a green arrow pointing a way but all Camino arrows were yellow so we didn't pay any attention to it. To the left of the trail was what looked to be the way so Jenni and I took that. It was a bit more rustic than any other Camino trails and after about 100 meters Jenni suggested we look at the map. While I was pulling our the map and looking at it she went ahead and kept walking.
I determined we went the wrong way, but Jenni was so far ahead that I had to run down the so called trail and through the thistle brush to catch her. She was so far up that we thought we saw a road and decided to go to it. After bush whacking for about an hour it turned out it was part of an access road to the sludge pond for an industrial plant. We were a bit tired so we trespassed on the plants service road and made our way back.
When we made it to where we took the so called trail we looked ahead and found that had we turned our necks just a little more by the blocked road we would have seen the way.
Now even further back from everyone we walked on. Eventually coming across a young boy running from his grandpa and yelling, "no" with the grandpa close behind him. We also saw a couple waking there dog by having the dog run in front of the van. They would get to the end of the road and the dog would turn around come back. It was very hilarious!
We eventually made it to town and they were out of bunks at the Alberque. The lady working there wasn't all that helpful as we left to find a place to sleep. We saw a German group that passed us early on calling for a taxi to the next town. They offered to share with us but both Jenni and I thought that would be cheating the Camino and resolved to sleep outside.
Thankfully we learned of the local racket ball court from a member of our Camino family. The court was open to us for free and with a roof over our heads and we liked the idea of having a quiet place to sleep.
We were taken out of our comfort zone as the doors of the court did not lock. While we were setting up our sleeping pads a guy came in the building to hang out. Shortly after he left Jenni and I settled in with a bottle of wine.
We fell fast asleep only to be awoken by the local teenagers that used the court as a hangout after dark. The gym echoed and magnified sounds from outside. The kids were shadowed in the transparent walls by the full moon. We could see them circling the building. Between the fireworks, screams, and running around the building it felt like a scene from Children of the Corn. To top it of the changing temperature caused the walls to expand but it sounded like they were hitting the walls in an attempt to let scare us.
Then they started to come into the building and rode their bikes in circles around the court.
We weren't sure what to expect so I manned up and went to talk to them. It turned out they were actually very nice and after a short conversation said "Buen Camino" and left.
None of the restaurants near our Alberque were open so after starting a bit late our group moved out in the drizzling rain to the next town. Our aching feet and the poor weather could not dampen our spirits. We shared stories and laughter all the way as the time seemed to fly by.
Upon arriving to town Jenni noticed an almost full bottle of vodka sitting outside. This was our first clue that there was a party the night before. Our suspicions were confirmed a few short steps later when we stumbled upon the party still in progress.
The young men with blood shot eyes and drinks in there hands were still shouting at one another and having a good time. As we maneuvered our way to the one open cafe it was packed with patrons from the party in town and fellow pilgrims.
Jenni used her amazing skills in Spanish to learn they were celebrating their towns Saints Day. While Jenni was learning about the towns founding Saint we were welcomed with our first spanish hello that consisted of kisses on the cheeks. I was not to excited about a drunk guy kissing Jenni on the cheek but with alcohol on his breath he asked permission and then greeted me the same way. In all the chaos of a crowded cafe that had people tripping over one another the locals and pilgrims still mixed well and enjoyed the atmosphere.
The rest of the walk for the day was over rolling hills that had stunning views of the valley below.
The late start combined with our love of the view put us in a position where we were almost the last ones left on the pilgrimage between the two towns.
Being in the back if the pack has its advantages in that we felt like we were the only ones on the trails. The problem was that when there was no one to follow and it is easy to lose your way.
Jenni and I came to a point on the trail where there was a sign in Spanish that stated pilgrims need to exit. There were three big stones blocking the road in front of us and to the right we could see that there looked to be an old Camino sign that was decommissioned. There was a green arrow pointing a way but all Camino arrows were yellow so we didn't pay any attention to it. To the left of the trail was what looked to be the way so Jenni and I took that. It was a bit more rustic than any other Camino trails and after about 100 meters Jenni suggested we look at the map. While I was pulling our the map and looking at it she went ahead and kept walking.
I determined we went the wrong way, but Jenni was so far ahead that I had to run down the so called trail and through the thistle brush to catch her. She was so far up that we thought we saw a road and decided to go to it. After bush whacking for about an hour it turned out it was part of an access road to the sludge pond for an industrial plant. We were a bit tired so we trespassed on the plants service road and made our way back.
When we made it to where we took the so called trail we looked ahead and found that had we turned our necks just a little more by the blocked road we would have seen the way.
Now even further back from everyone we walked on. Eventually coming across a young boy running from his grandpa and yelling, "no" with the grandpa close behind him. We also saw a couple waking there dog by having the dog run in front of the van. They would get to the end of the road and the dog would turn around come back. It was very hilarious!
We eventually made it to town and they were out of bunks at the Alberque. The lady working there wasn't all that helpful as we left to find a place to sleep. We saw a German group that passed us early on calling for a taxi to the next town. They offered to share with us but both Jenni and I thought that would be cheating the Camino and resolved to sleep outside.
Thankfully we learned of the local racket ball court from a member of our Camino family. The court was open to us for free and with a roof over our heads and we liked the idea of having a quiet place to sleep.
We were taken out of our comfort zone as the doors of the court did not lock. While we were setting up our sleeping pads a guy came in the building to hang out. Shortly after he left Jenni and I settled in with a bottle of wine.
We fell fast asleep only to be awoken by the local teenagers that used the court as a hangout after dark. The gym echoed and magnified sounds from outside. The kids were shadowed in the transparent walls by the full moon. We could see them circling the building. Between the fireworks, screams, and running around the building it felt like a scene from Children of the Corn. To top it of the changing temperature caused the walls to expand but it sounded like they were hitting the walls in an attempt to let scare us.
Then they started to come into the building and rode their bikes in circles around the court.
We weren't sure what to expect so I manned up and went to talk to them. It turned out they were actually very nice and after a short conversation said "Buen Camino" and left.
St. Jean to Roncevalles
Today was the first day of our camino we had a nice wake around 6 am for breakfast with consisted of french bread, butter, marmalade and a bowl full of coffee. Instant coffee, not the good stuff from the machine.
We have made great friends of Jonathon, from Australia, Christina and Ana, cousins from Portugal, and they were our bunk mates for the noche.
We decided to bring hike snackies with us so we stopped by the grocery store to buy a few apples, oranges, almonds, and some bread.
Carson and I visited the church to say a prayer and give a dedication to the camino.
When we left town, the streets went up. We knew the day would be tough, but we had no idea how tough. Two girls from California, Nicole and Suzannne were hiking their inspiration from the movie the way. From the corner uphill where we met the girls, everybody spread out. We had all ups with a few little flats today. We came across the albergue we debated staying at up in the mountains, named Orisson, and decided to share salchichon and queso sandwich.
Bocadillo, is the word, sandwiches are for nerds! France and Spain have delicious bread... french bread loaf is usually only 1€. Our pitstop for a sandwich was what many other pilgrims decided to do.
The views thoughout the Pyranees are ever changing. We wanted to stand still and freeze every view we could to remember this. We could stand in 1 spot to see amazing mountains and turn the other way to see horses, sheep and cows. The animals were either painted with a color, or had dinner bells so their owners could locate them. It was great to see so much free land for the animals to roam. Not like the midwest at all.
In France, we saw a lot of wooden fighting position posts that were set up in WW2.
We have definitely worked our legs, feet, arms and bodies to the point that we feel like we have run a marathon. It is incredible to know what we are capable with having some mountains to climb food and water.
There were 2 water fountains along the pass and we needed to refresh with both of them, even with our camelbacks. One was a nice monument of the fountain of Rolan, then the other side you see animals and trees. The fountain was fresh spring water coming from the ground and tasted a lil bit particley but completely hit the spot. We were spent!! Just a few feet after we continue on, we arrived to Spain from France. It's really not a super obvious border like MN to WI, but it does say Navarra, for the region. Many pilgrims didn't notice the change between countries, a as our surroundings hadn't really changed.
We walked with Max from France for quite a bit of the walk and then we found our friend Brian from Brooklyn about halfway through to the end.
We remain very happy on our pilgrimage. Here we have mixed emotions between the beauty of the vast country that surrounds us, but also in the challenges we are finding with our own selves in the physical challenge.
The albergue had a really nice cubicle for each person that we got really good sleep in. I appreciated the good bathroom, good sink and mirror to clean up with. The albergue has very nice restaurants on the property so we had dinner with the same friends we started with. We had fish with their heads still attached, which Carson did not appreciate. The pilgrims menu is a special meal timed so we can have our bigger meal later in the day, when the walking is complete. Usually more expensive but includes wine and a 2-3 course meal. We ended our meal with chocolate pudding. Yummers!!! Afterwards we sat on the patio and made his friends for hours. 1 glass of vino tinto will cost you 1.20 euro. The more we had the better the feet felt.
Ear plugs to block snoring, but the best night of rest thus far.
The morning comes very early, and tomorrow we learn early isnt early enough.
Saturday, June 22, 2013
Check in at St Jean De Pied Du Port
We woke up late at Anna's. Both of us tired from jet lag and a night of drinking cervasa in Pamplona. We were slow to go but Anna made us breakfast that consisted of coffee, a hard boiled egg, and toast. It was very good and hit the spot.
When we left Anna's we had about 3 hours before the bus left to St Jean. It was raining and we did not print directions to the bus depot. So in the rain Jenni and I were very happy that we packed rain gear as we navigated through town.
We found the bus and met a fellow pilgrim. Brian from Brooklyn. The bus was a nice charter bus with high seats. The narrow road to St Jean however was ripe switchbacks and steep 200 foot banks. The driver was confident in the route and did not slow down very often not even for bicyclist instead opting to honk his horn forcing them out of the way. When Jenni started feeling a bit woozy I was slightly concerned and debated telling her the lady in the seat in front of us already puked into a bag.
We arrived in St Jean de Pied Du Port. The weather was still a bit cloudy and cool. Our packs felt light as we entered the walls of the old city. The streets were cobble stone and the buildings were all 3-4 hundred years old. We could feel the history emanating from them and the number of conche shells representing St James were everywhere.
We found the Pilgrims Office at the top of one of the streets and inside there were 6 volunteers helping pilgrims get their pilgrims passports. They each spoke different languages and we ended up with one that spoke French and Spanish. Again Jenni's language skills continued to impress me. A short 15 minutes later we had our passports and bunks reserved at the Alberque.
A very French speaking volunteer walked us to the Alberque. It was a very old stone building built some time in the 17th century. Our bunks were down a flight in what would have been an old coal or wood storage room. It had an old shoot that was covered over. There were three sets of bunk beds and it seemed very clean. It did have a door that opened out to a garden and the old city wall. It was unbelievable that we were sleeping in such an old piece of history on the inside of the old city.
As we walked around through the shops in this French town I found myself in a precarious position. Jenni did not speak French! So something I did not expect happened, I was the language expert. I could hear the laughter from Mr Faultinowski my French teacher from High School. I know he would be concerned but also probably saying "Ha! Perhaps sleeping wasn't the best answer in class."
I stumbled through the very few phrases I remembered and Jenni and I worked our way to a corner shop for a crepe and cider. While there the comraderie of the Camino took shape. We met about a dozen people since we landed in Madeid. While at the shop every one of them walked by and joined us for conversation. At this point both Jenni and I realized that we would not be alone on this trek and the comfort of so many people from countries as far away as Thailand, Australia, and Belgium were represented.
Tomorrow we start the walk and we could not be any more excited.
When we left Anna's we had about 3 hours before the bus left to St Jean. It was raining and we did not print directions to the bus depot. So in the rain Jenni and I were very happy that we packed rain gear as we navigated through town.
We found the bus and met a fellow pilgrim. Brian from Brooklyn. The bus was a nice charter bus with high seats. The narrow road to St Jean however was ripe switchbacks and steep 200 foot banks. The driver was confident in the route and did not slow down very often not even for bicyclist instead opting to honk his horn forcing them out of the way. When Jenni started feeling a bit woozy I was slightly concerned and debated telling her the lady in the seat in front of us already puked into a bag.
We arrived in St Jean de Pied Du Port. The weather was still a bit cloudy and cool. Our packs felt light as we entered the walls of the old city. The streets were cobble stone and the buildings were all 3-4 hundred years old. We could feel the history emanating from them and the number of conche shells representing St James were everywhere.
We found the Pilgrims Office at the top of one of the streets and inside there were 6 volunteers helping pilgrims get their pilgrims passports. They each spoke different languages and we ended up with one that spoke French and Spanish. Again Jenni's language skills continued to impress me. A short 15 minutes later we had our passports and bunks reserved at the Alberque.
A very French speaking volunteer walked us to the Alberque. It was a very old stone building built some time in the 17th century. Our bunks were down a flight in what would have been an old coal or wood storage room. It had an old shoot that was covered over. There were three sets of bunk beds and it seemed very clean. It did have a door that opened out to a garden and the old city wall. It was unbelievable that we were sleeping in such an old piece of history on the inside of the old city.
As we walked around through the shops in this French town I found myself in a precarious position. Jenni did not speak French! So something I did not expect happened, I was the language expert. I could hear the laughter from Mr Faultinowski my French teacher from High School. I know he would be concerned but also probably saying "Ha! Perhaps sleeping wasn't the best answer in class."
I stumbled through the very few phrases I remembered and Jenni and I worked our way to a corner shop for a crepe and cider. While there the comraderie of the Camino took shape. We met about a dozen people since we landed in Madeid. While at the shop every one of them walked by and joined us for conversation. At this point both Jenni and I realized that we would not be alone on this trek and the comfort of so many people from countries as far away as Thailand, Australia, and Belgium were represented.
Tomorrow we start the walk and we could not be any more excited.
Pamplona via Train
After our cheap but filling Paella lunch in Madrid we navigated our way to the train station. Already here only three hours in Spain I could hear Jenni's fluency in Spanish getting stronger.
We took a relaxing three hour train ride to Pamplona. The train was so quiet it seemed to float on the rails. Except for the tube like construction with two seats on either side of the isle and the overhead bins we could have been sitting in a well lit building somewhere. In a small TV overhead, "The Life of PI" was playing for our entertainment. Renfe even provided complimentary headphones to use if we wished.
The scenery was so beautiful outside the windows. Everywhere there were fields of olive groves, wheat, dates, an occasional corn field as well as many crops I did not recognize. After just leaving Nebraska where all there seamed to be was corn, hay, and soybean crops the diversity here was so great I couldn't stop staring out the window. It is not often I will ignore a movie on the TV to look outside but here there was so much more to see then the movie playing overhead could provide.
After arriving in Pamplona we met our hostess, Ann. She lived in a small apartment but was glad to give us place to stay and a warm breakfast.
Ann shared her knowledge of the city and immediately endeared herself to both Jenni and I. She made us feel welcome and at home in her place.
Ann suggested some local dishes and establishments to us. Filled with the excitement of being in Spain we took a bus to the ancient walled part of the city where the majority of the markets and bars were located.
It did not take long before we found Ann's first recommendation and ordered a Huevo and a glass of Spanish cider. The Huevo was a hard boiled egg encased in some sort of creamy cheese, breaded and deep fried. Delicious!!! The cider was a little more vinegary then I was used to. It tasted very similar to a batch if cider I poured down the drain at home that I once brewed because I thought it went bad and I did not make it correctly. After tasting the Spanish cider I found some bit of redemption in my brewing skills because if it was good enough for the Spaniards it was good enough for me and perhaps I did not need to waste that cider so many years ago.
We went to four bars sampling the food and soaking in the experience. Everywhere people were nice and very welcoming. Even at a German bar they gave us some free tapas to sample as they closed for the night.
It was a Wednesday night and the streets were still crowded at midnight as the bars that stayed open turned to discos. We left the bars at 1:00 and walked the mile and a half back to Ann's feeling safe and satisfied. Soaking in the atmosphere of the city we walked down the hill past the huge walls of the old city. Once we were out of the area with the bars the streets were deserted but still we felt comfortable. We had a level of comfort that we don't even get in many neighborhoods in our own city back home.
We took a relaxing three hour train ride to Pamplona. The train was so quiet it seemed to float on the rails. Except for the tube like construction with two seats on either side of the isle and the overhead bins we could have been sitting in a well lit building somewhere. In a small TV overhead, "The Life of PI" was playing for our entertainment. Renfe even provided complimentary headphones to use if we wished.
The scenery was so beautiful outside the windows. Everywhere there were fields of olive groves, wheat, dates, an occasional corn field as well as many crops I did not recognize. After just leaving Nebraska where all there seamed to be was corn, hay, and soybean crops the diversity here was so great I couldn't stop staring out the window. It is not often I will ignore a movie on the TV to look outside but here there was so much more to see then the movie playing overhead could provide.
After arriving in Pamplona we met our hostess, Ann. She lived in a small apartment but was glad to give us place to stay and a warm breakfast.
Ann shared her knowledge of the city and immediately endeared herself to both Jenni and I. She made us feel welcome and at home in her place.
Ann suggested some local dishes and establishments to us. Filled with the excitement of being in Spain we took a bus to the ancient walled part of the city where the majority of the markets and bars were located.
It did not take long before we found Ann's first recommendation and ordered a Huevo and a glass of Spanish cider. The Huevo was a hard boiled egg encased in some sort of creamy cheese, breaded and deep fried. Delicious!!! The cider was a little more vinegary then I was used to. It tasted very similar to a batch if cider I poured down the drain at home that I once brewed because I thought it went bad and I did not make it correctly. After tasting the Spanish cider I found some bit of redemption in my brewing skills because if it was good enough for the Spaniards it was good enough for me and perhaps I did not need to waste that cider so many years ago.
We went to four bars sampling the food and soaking in the experience. Everywhere people were nice and very welcoming. Even at a German bar they gave us some free tapas to sample as they closed for the night.
It was a Wednesday night and the streets were still crowded at midnight as the bars that stayed open turned to discos. We left the bars at 1:00 and walked the mile and a half back to Ann's feeling safe and satisfied. Soaking in the atmosphere of the city we walked down the hill past the huge walls of the old city. Once we were out of the area with the bars the streets were deserted but still we felt comfortable. We had a level of comfort that we don't even get in many neighborhoods in our own city back home.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
Landfall...Madrid!!!!
We made it to Madrid!!! What a surreal experience thinking that just a few short hours ago we were in Minneapolis.
The flight went quick and both of us were glad for the time to rest and take a few momenta think about Clif. He is in our thoughts and his spirit is with us.
We had our first panic attack trying to use an ATM then trying to purchase a Metro ticket. The cards didn't work!!
It wasn't until a guy working for the Metro had us go to another machine that we found out our cards were fine, it was the machine. Then we also discovered the exchange rate meant that we were trying to take out too much from the bank. So after adjusting to smaller amounts of Euros our panic turned to relief and the phrase "The Camino Provides" first started to mean something to us.
We had lunch at Roxy's, a small cafe on the street that normally we would have walk past due to the lack of people inside and dark, barely noticeable entrance except as we walked past we noticed their menu. While reading it a waiter walked out and somehow convinced us we really wanted to eat here.
It was here that I realized I was at a major disadvantage to Jenni. Being at her mercy for her translating skills meant that she could conveniently leave details out when translating for me. I ordered what she was having and when it came out she was laughing so hard tears welled up between her eyes. I ordered Paella not knowing it was loaded with octopus, mussels, clams, boned chicken, whole shrimp, and some other shell fish I could not recognize. I did not know the deviousness that was in the women that sat across from me with the tears of laughter in her eyes that in only a few short months was to become my wife.
After my first look of terror and disgust of what was in front of me I poked at the rice and tasted what the waiter had brought me. The yellow rice was seasoned with saffron and was nothing like I have had before. The sweet flavor tasted delicious but I still was leery of the seafood. Jenni in her very convincing wisdom told me I was in Spain and had she not tricked me knew I would not order this dish. While in Spain I could not hold onto my food pickiness and must try everything. So with these words in my ears and Jenni's beautiful laughter in my heart I opened my first clam and with that symbolic gesture opened myself to a truly cultural experience in Spain.
Packing Lists
This is our Pre-Camino packing list. It will be interesting what we determine we did not need to carry and what we realized we should have had.
Jenni.
2 t-shirts
1 tank top
1 running capris
1 zipoff pants
1 dress
1 sandals
1 hoody zipoff
1 hiking shoes
2 short socks
1 tall sock
1 liner
3 underwear
2 bras
Camera
Cell phone
Garmins
Sleeping bag
Cocoon liner
Sleeping pad
Rain coat
Rain pants
Pillow stuff sack
Trekking poles
Green foot ball and splint
Soap bag
Medical bag
Rain cover for pack
Airport bag
Sunglasses
Sunblock
Sun hat
Tech hat
Vitamins
Camelback
Tp
Camp towel
Earplugs
Head lamp
Buff and headband
Chapstick
Cooled towel
Reflective belt
Carson
1 button up shirt
2 tech shirts
2 zip off pants
3 socks
1 sandals
3 boxers
1 brim hat
1 tech hat
1 long sleeve T-shirt
1 sleeping bag
1 cocoon liner
Chargers
Vitamins
Journal
Headlamp
Rain jacket
Rain pants
Airport bag
Sunglasses
Sleeping pad
Bandana
1 cooler towel
1 camp towel
Soap bag
Reflective belt
Cell phone
1pr hiking shoes
Camel back
Earplugs
Multi tool
String backpack
Headphones
1pr Trekking Poles
Jenni.
2 t-shirts
1 tank top
1 running capris
1 zipoff pants
1 dress
1 sandals
1 hoody zipoff
1 hiking shoes
2 short socks
1 tall sock
1 liner
3 underwear
2 bras
Camera
Cell phone
Garmins
Sleeping bag
Cocoon liner
Sleeping pad
Rain coat
Rain pants
Pillow stuff sack
Trekking poles
Green foot ball and splint
Soap bag
Medical bag
Rain cover for pack
Airport bag
Sunglasses
Sunblock
Sun hat
Tech hat
Vitamins
Camelback
Tp
Camp towel
Earplugs
Head lamp
Buff and headband
Chapstick
Cooled towel
Reflective belt
Carson
1 button up shirt
2 tech shirts
2 zip off pants
3 socks
1 sandals
3 boxers
1 brim hat
1 tech hat
1 long sleeve T-shirt
1 sleeping bag
1 cocoon liner
Chargers
Vitamins
Journal
Headlamp
Rain jacket
Rain pants
Airport bag
Sunglasses
Sleeping pad
Bandana
1 cooler towel
1 camp towel
Soap bag
Reflective belt
Cell phone
1pr hiking shoes
Camel back
Earplugs
Multi tool
String backpack
Headphones
1pr Trekking Poles
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Hiking the Way
While Jenni and I were getting ready to embark on our journey to Spain for a 7 week 560 mile hike we couldn't help but think of all the little things that make up a trip like this. When hiking for 15 miles plus per day every ounce counts. We weighed each of the items in our pack and made the hard decisions of what to bring and what to take out. Adding a pair of socks that weighed 4 ounces doesn't seem like a lot but when all the little things are added up that mole hill of a pair of socks along with 3 ounces for this and 7 ounces for a that and so on the pack becomes a mountain fast.
While making these decisions we both got caught up in the plight of my cousin who through the years has been more of my big brother and one of my best friends. My cousin has been fighting for his life the last two years. His fight ended just as Jenni and I were going through the airport about to embark on this trip. His story can't help but grab the heart of anyone who hears it. His devoted wife has been by his side every moment possible. Her decisions to be with him outweighing all other options. Clif wanted nothing more than to live his life with his family. His contagious outgoing personality befriending anyone fortunate enough to get to know him.
While packing and thinking about the little things to carry like an extra pair of socks it all seems so minuscule and insignificant now. It is the moments like this that one reflects on life that the personal journey of the Camino takes shape.
The Camino started as a trade route by the Romans to the "End of the World" as they called it and turned into a religious pilgrimage to the burial place of the patron saint of Spain, Saint James. Original travelers of the Way of Saint James were promised reduced time in purgatory and forgiveness of sins. Travelers would make the journey looking for peace within themselves and many also traveled for the graces of wealthy patrons that paid them to carry their message or for family members that were unable to make the journey themselves.
We sat with Clif last night knowing this was most likely his last night on earth and whatever our original reasons for choosing to travel "The Way" our purpose came clear while sitting with him at the hospital. Our journey will be one of reflection and remembrance of those we lost with a special dedication and remembrance to my older brother, my cousin Clif. We will travel "The Way" not only for ourselves but also for the memories and prayers we carry with us for those we've lost.
While making these decisions we both got caught up in the plight of my cousin who through the years has been more of my big brother and one of my best friends. My cousin has been fighting for his life the last two years. His fight ended just as Jenni and I were going through the airport about to embark on this trip. His story can't help but grab the heart of anyone who hears it. His devoted wife has been by his side every moment possible. Her decisions to be with him outweighing all other options. Clif wanted nothing more than to live his life with his family. His contagious outgoing personality befriending anyone fortunate enough to get to know him.
While packing and thinking about the little things to carry like an extra pair of socks it all seems so minuscule and insignificant now. It is the moments like this that one reflects on life that the personal journey of the Camino takes shape.
The Camino started as a trade route by the Romans to the "End of the World" as they called it and turned into a religious pilgrimage to the burial place of the patron saint of Spain, Saint James. Original travelers of the Way of Saint James were promised reduced time in purgatory and forgiveness of sins. Travelers would make the journey looking for peace within themselves and many also traveled for the graces of wealthy patrons that paid them to carry their message or for family members that were unable to make the journey themselves.
We sat with Clif last night knowing this was most likely his last night on earth and whatever our original reasons for choosing to travel "The Way" our purpose came clear while sitting with him at the hospital. Our journey will be one of reflection and remembrance of those we lost with a special dedication and remembrance to my older brother, my cousin Clif. We will travel "The Way" not only for ourselves but also for the memories and prayers we carry with us for those we've lost.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)