Check in at St Jean De Pied Du Port

We woke up late at Anna's. Both of us tired from jet lag and a night of drinking cervasa in Pamplona. We were slow to go but Anna made us breakfast that consisted of coffee, a hard boiled egg, and toast. It was very good and hit the spot.

When we left Anna's we had about 3 hours before the bus left to St Jean. It was raining and we did not print directions to the bus depot. So in the rain Jenni and I were very happy that we packed rain gear as we navigated through town.

We found the bus and met a fellow pilgrim. Brian from Brooklyn. The bus was a nice charter bus with high seats. The narrow road to St Jean however was ripe switchbacks and steep 200 foot banks. The driver was confident in the route and did not slow down very often not even for bicyclist instead opting to honk his horn forcing them out of the way. When Jenni started feeling a bit woozy I was slightly concerned and debated telling her the lady in the seat in front of us already puked into a bag.

We arrived in St Jean de Pied Du Port. The weather was still a bit cloudy and cool. Our packs felt light as we entered the walls of the old city. The streets were cobble stone and the buildings were all 3-4 hundred years old. We could feel the history emanating from them and the number of conche shells representing St James were everywhere.

We found the Pilgrims Office at the top of one of the streets and inside there were 6 volunteers helping pilgrims get their pilgrims passports. They each spoke different languages and we ended up with one that spoke French and Spanish. Again Jenni's language skills continued to impress me. A short 15 minutes later we had our passports and bunks reserved at the Alberque.

A very French speaking volunteer walked us to the Alberque. It was a very old stone building built some time in the 17th century. Our bunks were down a flight in what would have been an old coal or wood storage room. It had an old shoot that was covered over. There were three sets of bunk beds and it seemed very clean. It did have a door that opened out to a garden and the old city wall. It was unbelievable that we were sleeping in such an old piece of history on the inside of the old city.

As we walked around through the shops in this French town I found myself in a precarious position. Jenni did not speak French! So something I did not expect happened, I was the language expert. I could hear the laughter from Mr Faultinowski my French teacher from High School. I know he would be concerned but also probably saying "Ha! Perhaps sleeping wasn't the best answer in class."

I stumbled through the very few phrases I remembered and Jenni and I worked our way to a corner shop for a crepe and cider. While there the comraderie of the Camino took shape. We met about a dozen people since we landed in Madeid. While at the shop every one of them walked by and joined us for conversation. At this point both Jenni and I realized that we would not be alone on this trek and the comfort of so many people from countries as far away as Thailand, Australia, and Belgium were represented.

Tomorrow we start the walk and we could not be any more excited.

Pamplona via Train

After our cheap but filling Paella lunch in Madrid we navigated our way to the train station. Already here only three hours in Spain I could hear Jenni's fluency in Spanish getting stronger.

We took a relaxing three hour train ride to Pamplona. The train was so quiet it seemed to float on the rails. Except for the tube like construction with two seats on either side of the isle and the overhead bins we could have been sitting in a well lit building somewhere. In a small TV overhead, "The Life of PI" was playing for our entertainment. Renfe even provided complimentary headphones to use if we wished.

The scenery was so beautiful outside the windows. Everywhere there were fields of olive groves, wheat, dates, an occasional corn field as well as many crops I did not recognize. After just leaving Nebraska where all there seamed to be was corn, hay, and soybean crops the diversity here was so great I couldn't stop staring out the window. It is not often I will ignore a movie on the TV to look outside but here there was so much more to see then the movie playing overhead could provide.

After arriving in Pamplona we met our hostess, Ann. She lived in a small apartment but was glad to give us place to stay and a warm breakfast.

Ann shared her knowledge of the city and immediately endeared herself to both Jenni and I. She made us feel welcome and at home in her place.

Ann suggested some local dishes and establishments to us. Filled with the excitement of being in Spain we took a bus to the ancient walled part of the city where the majority of the markets and bars were located.

It did not take long before we found Ann's first recommendation and ordered a Huevo and a glass of Spanish cider. The Huevo was a hard boiled egg encased in some sort of creamy cheese, breaded and deep fried. Delicious!!! The cider was a little more vinegary then I was used to. It tasted very similar to a batch if cider I poured down the drain at home that I once brewed because I thought it went bad and I did not make it correctly. After tasting the Spanish cider I found some bit of redemption in my brewing skills because if it was good enough for the Spaniards it was good enough for me and perhaps I did not need to waste that cider so many years ago.

We went to four bars sampling the food and soaking in the experience. Everywhere people were nice and very welcoming. Even at a German bar they gave us some free tapas to sample as they closed for the night.

It was a Wednesday night and the streets were still crowded at midnight as the bars that stayed open turned to discos. We left the bars at 1:00 and walked the mile and a half back to Ann's feeling safe and satisfied. Soaking in the atmosphere of the city we walked down the hill past the huge walls of the old city. Once we were out of the area with the bars the streets were deserted but still we felt comfortable. We had a level of comfort that we don't even get in many neighborhoods in our own city back home.

Landfall...Madrid!!!!

We made it to Madrid!!! What a surreal experience thinking that just a few short hours ago we were in Minneapolis.

The flight went quick and both of us were glad for the time to rest and take a few momenta think about Clif. He is in our thoughts and his spirit is with us.

We had our first panic attack trying to use an ATM then trying to purchase a Metro ticket. The cards didn't work!!

It wasn't until a guy working for the Metro had us go to another machine that we found out our cards were fine, it was the machine. Then we also discovered the exchange rate meant that we were trying to take out too much from the bank. So after adjusting to smaller amounts of Euros our panic turned to relief and the phrase "The Camino Provides" first started to mean something to us.

We had lunch at Roxy's, a small cafe on the street that normally we would have walk past due to the lack of people inside and dark, barely noticeable entrance except as we walked past we noticed their menu. While reading it a waiter walked out and somehow convinced us we really wanted to eat here.

It was here that I realized I was at a major disadvantage to Jenni. Being at her mercy for her translating skills meant that she could conveniently leave details out when translating for me. I ordered what she was having and when it came out she was laughing so hard tears welled up between her eyes. I ordered Paella not knowing it was loaded with octopus, mussels, clams, boned chicken, whole shrimp, and some other shell fish I could not recognize. I did not know the deviousness that was in the women that sat across from me with the tears of laughter in her eyes that in only a few short months was to become my wife.

After my first look of terror and disgust of what was in front of me I poked at the rice and tasted what the waiter had brought me. The yellow rice was seasoned with saffron and was nothing like I have had before. The sweet flavor tasted delicious but I still was leery of the seafood. Jenni in her very convincing wisdom told me I was in Spain and had she not tricked me knew I would not order this dish. While in Spain I could not hold onto my food pickiness and must try everything. So with these words in my ears and Jenni's beautiful laughter in my heart I opened my first clam and with that symbolic gesture opened myself to a truly cultural experience in Spain.

Packing Lists

This is our Pre-Camino packing list. It will be interesting what we determine we did not need to carry and what we realized we should have had.

Jenni.
2 t-shirts
1 tank top
1 running capris
1 zipoff pants
1 dress
1 sandals
1 hoody zipoff
1 hiking shoes
2 short socks
1 tall sock
1 liner
3 underwear
2 bras
Camera
Cell phone
Garmins
Sleeping bag
Cocoon liner
Sleeping pad
Rain coat
Rain pants
Pillow stuff sack
Trekking poles
Green foot ball and splint
Soap bag
Medical bag
Rain cover for pack
Airport bag
Sunglasses
Sunblock
Sun hat
Tech hat
Vitamins
Camelback
Tp
Camp towel
Earplugs
Head lamp
Buff and headband
Chapstick
Cooled towel
Reflective belt

Carson
1 button up shirt
2 tech shirts
2 zip off pants
3 socks
1 sandals
3 boxers
1 brim hat
1 tech hat
1 long sleeve T-shirt
1 sleeping bag
1 cocoon liner
Chargers
Vitamins
Journal
Headlamp
Rain jacket
Rain pants
Airport bag
Sunglasses
Sleeping pad
Bandana
1 cooler towel
1 camp towel
Soap bag
Reflective belt
Cell phone
1pr hiking shoes
Camel back
Earplugs
Multi tool
String backpack
Headphones
1pr Trekking Poles

Hiking the Way

While Jenni and I were getting ready to embark on our journey to Spain for a 7 week 560 mile hike we couldn't help but think of all the little things that make up a trip like this. When hiking for 15 miles plus per day every ounce counts. We weighed each of the items in our pack and made the hard decisions of what to bring and what to take out. Adding a pair of socks that weighed 4 ounces doesn't seem like a lot but when all the little things are added up that mole hill of a pair of socks along with 3 ounces for this and 7 ounces for a that and so on the pack becomes a mountain fast.

While making these decisions we both got caught up in the plight of my cousin who through the years has been more of my big brother and one of my best friends. My cousin has been fighting for his life the last two years. His fight ended just as Jenni and I were going through the airport about to embark on this trip. His story can't help but grab the heart of anyone who hears it. His devoted wife has been by his side every moment possible. Her decisions to be with him outweighing all other options. Clif wanted nothing more than to live his life with his family. His contagious outgoing personality befriending anyone fortunate enough to get to know him.

While packing and thinking about the little things to carry like an extra pair of socks it all seems so minuscule and insignificant now. It is the moments like this that one reflects on life that the personal journey of the Camino takes shape.

The Camino started as a trade route by the Romans to the "End of the World" as they called it and turned into a religious pilgrimage to the burial place of the patron saint of Spain, Saint James. Original travelers of the Way of Saint James were promised reduced time in purgatory and forgiveness of sins. Travelers would make the journey looking for peace within themselves and many also traveled for the graces of wealthy patrons that paid them to carry their message or for family members that were unable to make the journey themselves.

We sat with Clif last night knowing this was most likely his last night on earth and whatever our original reasons for choosing to travel "The Way" our purpose came clear while sitting with him at the hospital. Our journey will be one of reflection and remembrance of those we lost with a special dedication and remembrance to my older brother, my cousin Clif. We will travel "The Way" not only for ourselves but also for the memories and prayers we carry with us for those we've lost.