Things we are going to miss when the camino is over:
Cafe con leche
Fresh squeezed oj
Churros y chocolate
Architecture
Amazing Spanish people
Cute old people
Principe chocolate cookies
Kas soda
2€ bottles of wine
Bunkbeds
Cheap bags of great olives
Meeting new friends from around the world
Trying to communicate in French, German, Italian, etc. with other walkers
Tortilla espanola
Paella
Pulpo
Ensalada mixta
Vino tinto, sangria, vino de verano
Cows walking down the street
Tapas
Things we are not going to miss after the camino:
Timed lights in bathrooms
Fart snorer
Talking about bedbugs
Poop on the trail
Garbage on the trail
Having to air out my socks and feet at every opportunity
Distinguishing poop smells
Constantly searching for yellow arrows or shells
Completa:-(
Using the "woods"
Taking care of our feet
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Santiago
Walking into Santiago was an incredible experience. Leaving from 21k away at 4:30am brought us into the city under the stars. The amazing thing is a month earlier we walked from Larrasoana with the brightest super moon guiding us, and today was a similar experience. We didn't need our headlamps because the moon was our guide. We took our time and it was a quiet reflective walk. We stopped in Lavacolla to see the church where pilgrims traditionally washed them selves before entering into Santiago. We walked to a beautiful cross monument on the hill in Monte de la Goza where a man was crafting camino wire art for donativo. We are amazed with the creativeness of how some Spainards make a living. We have seen many types of handiwork.
Once we arrived in Santiago, we felt the bustle of a bigger city but knew we had an incredible experience coming to us. We got into town and it seemed like forever until we got to the plaza where the cathedral is. It was an amazing feeling to stand where thousands of pilgrims before us stood as they came to the completion of their journey. People were sitting, laying down, taking pictures and just hanging out in the plaza. Some people couldn't hold back their emotions and were crying. We did some of our own pictures and then group photos with our camino family. After that, we walked together to get our final stamp and our compostela. The feeling of being in Santiago was surreal because of the great fun we have had all along the way. We were excited to complete this stage of our journey, but equally sad to be already done!!!
My compostela said Joanne Hibberd. I thought there was a mistake, but I learned that really was my name in latin. Carson's name didn't change at all. We took our compostela and went to check in at our last albergue for this portion of our adventure and then headed to the pilgrims mass at noon. Though our feet were less than satisfied to stand still for an hour and a half, it was intensely beautiful to be inside the cathedral and see the large number of people taking part in the misa. My favorite piece was hearing pilgrims read parts of the daily prayer in their own languages and seeing the intense ball of incense fly through the cathedral. After we went to say a prayer for the end of our journey in the lower part of the church where Santiago remains.
We did some walking around Santiago and were celebrating with some Galician celtic music in the other big plaza. We hung out with our camino family and reunited with other friends from along the way!
The 24th of July is the big celebration in Santiago for the feast day. The actual saints day is a day spent with family. We planned to watch the fogos (in Galician), aka fireworks. They also planned a laser show on the cathedral, which we planned to sit in the square and watch. All of the festivities began around 11-12pm, much later than what we do back home for the 4th of July. We waited in line for a bit, but it turned out they weren't letting in any more people to the square because it was very full, or so we thought, so we went up to the park that over looked the cathedral. We found out after just a little bit that there had been a terrible train accident just a few miles away at the RENFE station, and that there would not be fireworks. We later realized that around 80 people passed away. Over 100 were injured and the train was going more than twice as fast as it should have been for the corner it was rounding. Santiago was not the same. This accident was one of the worst in European history, and definitely made the festival of Saint James, San Santiago a solemn day. The city declared a 3 day period of mourning, so we spent our time finding the camino friends we had met along the way. We had an excellent seafood meal with our french friends Jean Luke and Michel, and their wives. We did a little celtic Spanish dancing at the first concert of the festival, before they were cancelled. We did some shopping for ourselves and our families. We reflected on the incredible experience of the camino and realized the camino never is over. We found ourselves pampered in our first hotel experience (thank you Sheri Gedlinske!!!) with real towels and sheets. We do enjoy most albergues with camino friends, but we have met several friends along the way who snore a bit much. We had forgotten too how great it is to use real towels and sheets!!!
Once we arrived in Santiago, we felt the bustle of a bigger city but knew we had an incredible experience coming to us. We got into town and it seemed like forever until we got to the plaza where the cathedral is. It was an amazing feeling to stand where thousands of pilgrims before us stood as they came to the completion of their journey. People were sitting, laying down, taking pictures and just hanging out in the plaza. Some people couldn't hold back their emotions and were crying. We did some of our own pictures and then group photos with our camino family. After that, we walked together to get our final stamp and our compostela. The feeling of being in Santiago was surreal because of the great fun we have had all along the way. We were excited to complete this stage of our journey, but equally sad to be already done!!!
My compostela said Joanne Hibberd. I thought there was a mistake, but I learned that really was my name in latin. Carson's name didn't change at all. We took our compostela and went to check in at our last albergue for this portion of our adventure and then headed to the pilgrims mass at noon. Though our feet were less than satisfied to stand still for an hour and a half, it was intensely beautiful to be inside the cathedral and see the large number of people taking part in the misa. My favorite piece was hearing pilgrims read parts of the daily prayer in their own languages and seeing the intense ball of incense fly through the cathedral. After we went to say a prayer for the end of our journey in the lower part of the church where Santiago remains.
We did some walking around Santiago and were celebrating with some Galician celtic music in the other big plaza. We hung out with our camino family and reunited with other friends from along the way!
The 24th of July is the big celebration in Santiago for the feast day. The actual saints day is a day spent with family. We planned to watch the fogos (in Galician), aka fireworks. They also planned a laser show on the cathedral, which we planned to sit in the square and watch. All of the festivities began around 11-12pm, much later than what we do back home for the 4th of July. We waited in line for a bit, but it turned out they weren't letting in any more people to the square because it was very full, or so we thought, so we went up to the park that over looked the cathedral. We found out after just a little bit that there had been a terrible train accident just a few miles away at the RENFE station, and that there would not be fireworks. We later realized that around 80 people passed away. Over 100 were injured and the train was going more than twice as fast as it should have been for the corner it was rounding. Santiago was not the same. This accident was one of the worst in European history, and definitely made the festival of Saint James, San Santiago a solemn day. The city declared a 3 day period of mourning, so we spent our time finding the camino friends we had met along the way. We had an excellent seafood meal with our french friends Jean Luke and Michel, and their wives. We did a little celtic Spanish dancing at the first concert of the festival, before they were cancelled. We did some shopping for ourselves and our families. We reflected on the incredible experience of the camino and realized the camino never is over. We found ourselves pampered in our first hotel experience (thank you Sheri Gedlinske!!!) with real towels and sheets. We do enjoy most albergues with camino friends, but we have met several friends along the way who snore a bit much. We had forgotten too how great it is to use real towels and sheets!!!
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
Arzura to O'Pedrouzo
The one unfortunate part of walking the Camino is that all the days feel like one long day. Our routines are fairly set so the biggest thing is spending time with the amazing people we walk the Camino with, the views, Spanish culture, and trails. The memories all kind of blend together in one long great memory so when we don't write a blog the day it happens it gets difficult remembering exact things specific to the day.
Fortunately we did encounter something that stands out two days later. Our walk today was amazing as always. The trail was great and we leave so early that it doesn't seem like we are stuck in large crowds. We did do something different. Having reserved a place to stay the night before we really wanted to trust that the Camino would provide.
This trust thrusted us into a position that we never thought possible on the Camino. We got to town fairly early, around 11ish and walked immediately to the municipal albergue. We figured we would be early, as we turned the corner there were already 90 people waiting in line for the albergue and it didn't even open for another 2 hours!
We waited in line and were able to say hi to many of our Camino family as they got to town. The place was just so so but we again realized it was the people we were with that made everything what it was and we loved our company. Brian, James, Amy, Dan, Ryan, Jen, Kate, Melissa, and Jennifer. We couldn't ask for a better group and were thankful we found each other.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Palas De Rei to Arzua
Things I learned about Spain:
Tractors are as common in cities as cars and travel just as fast. I also learned cows out number people 3 to 1.
Today's walk was brisk with the thick fog that turned into a slight drizzle. We had reserved an albergue so we weren't in as much of a rush to get to our end point as we had been. The large hordes of people that plagued us right before the 100km mark had also spread out.
The Camino tests everyone different. The Camino pounds on your weaknesses until you either work past them or they become so apparent to everyone around you that someone else calls you out.
one of my weaknesses was how I initially thought ill of the new walkers that flooded the trail and compete for the space in the albergues at the 100km mark. I didn't like how they wore their new Camino t-shirts or wore shells around their necks with arrows. It wasn't until I watched a guy popping a blister with a safety pin on the floor next to my bunk did I realize that it isn't a compitition for the toughest or longest journey. If it were I would lose that battle miserably as there are walkers that I have met that started in Switzerland, Belgium, and even a family with a 9 month old baby, an 8 and 11 year old, and the mom and dad that started 100 kilometers further back then we did. None of these people thought ill of competing with me for space having started from where I did. Watching the guy pop his blister made me remember that I am here for my journey. My journey is different then others and we will all complete our journey as we should.
Some of our Camino family has had some unfortunate visitors at night. Jenni and I have been as diligent as we could looking for signs of these visitors and am thankful every morning that we do not have them. We did write a little song for them and anyone that has had the guests over for dinner.
It is goin' to have babies
Two little bed bugs biting me
Their goin' start a colony
Three little bed bugs biting me
I think I am starting to get dizzy
Four little bed bugs biting me
I don't want to look down to see
Five little bed bugs biting me
People are starting to stay away from me
Our Santa Cruz friends added some lyrics and created another song that also highlights the number one fear on the Camino. These little critters have caused more anxiety then any other challenge the Camino could have provided. We are hopeful that we do not have this fear get tested, and hope that those of our friends that have were able to clear them up without further problems.
Saturday, July 20, 2013
Portomarin to Palas de REI
This morning ended our experience with fart snorer. It was a tough night for many in our camino family as we were joined in our 100+ person albergue with two of the three worst snorers on the entire camino.
Our day started early, around 5:45 with surprisingly nice cool but thick air. Again, we began with more hords of people. This time, the groups had grown larger...like zombies walking through the night. We did our best to keep our regular quicker cadence, but it was made even quicker as we worried about our camino family being separated from the start of the day.
We started to hear about people reserving albergues yesterday. Before then, we had no idea this was even allowed, but we quickly learned it was true as we wrapped up our walking and began to find our stopping spot for the day. The very first albergue we came to was one of the largest private albergues in town, and even being some of the quicker walkers of the day, we were turned away because it was full. James, Carson and I got a lead on a brand new albergue not in the books and were able to get in without reservation, but the rest of our camino family wasn't as lucky. They had to walk an extra 3.5k to find their stopping point. The interesting piece is our dialog that we shared to make a group decision. We decided as a group, we feel blessed having met and for continuing our journey on the camino together for so much time. We don't like the feeling of racing through this experience, but today definitely could not be as enjoyed as much as all of our other camino days, not due to lack of great company, but due to so many people pilgrimaging.
For dinner tonight, James, Carson and I adventured to try the menu del dia which included ensalada, caldo, lomo, and pulpo along with vino and postres. It was the best menu we have had so far, and Carson was the greatest sport to try the Galician pulpo... served with potatoes. I am so proud to be marrying such an openly adventurous man!!!!!
Our day started early, around 5:45 with surprisingly nice cool but thick air. Again, we began with more hords of people. This time, the groups had grown larger...like zombies walking through the night. We did our best to keep our regular quicker cadence, but it was made even quicker as we worried about our camino family being separated from the start of the day.
We started to hear about people reserving albergues yesterday. Before then, we had no idea this was even allowed, but we quickly learned it was true as we wrapped up our walking and began to find our stopping spot for the day. The very first albergue we came to was one of the largest private albergues in town, and even being some of the quicker walkers of the day, we were turned away because it was full. James, Carson and I got a lead on a brand new albergue not in the books and were able to get in without reservation, but the rest of our camino family wasn't as lucky. They had to walk an extra 3.5k to find their stopping point. The interesting piece is our dialog that we shared to make a group decision. We decided as a group, we feel blessed having met and for continuing our journey on the camino together for so much time. We don't like the feeling of racing through this experience, but today definitely could not be as enjoyed as much as all of our other camino days, not due to lack of great company, but due to so many people pilgrimaging.
For dinner tonight, James, Carson and I adventured to try the menu del dia which included ensalada, caldo, lomo, and pulpo along with vino and postres. It was the best menu we have had so far, and Carson was the greatest sport to try the Galician pulpo... served with potatoes. I am so proud to be marrying such an openly adventurous man!!!!!
Friday, July 19, 2013
Sarria to Portomarin
With the cooler days we started leaving a little later because we no longer fear a death by sun. The cooler days and mountain hikes bring with them the most amazing sensation we have felt on the Camino. The valleys have low lying fog that give us stunning pictures of age old farms surrounded by stone fences with cows roaming the narrow pathways between them. As we climb higher we emerged from the fog and experienced what it is like to walk on clouds as we can see how they fill the valleys below and behind us. It is an amazing feeling.
Instead of eating apples today I decided to share with the horses. After seeing the beasts in there pastures I picked some apples to feed them. The horses where very thankful and were also very good about only using there lips to take the apple from my hand. Seeing my success with the horses Jenni fed one and immediately became the horse's best friend. She sometimes reminds me of a character on an old Disney cartoon where all the birds and small forrest critters sing songs and circle up around her.
Today also marked a milestone in our trek. We hit the 100km marker post. It is weird thinking that just a few short weeks ago we had over 800 kilometers to go. With each marker post counting down Jenni no longer expresses joy but rather sadness knowing that soon it all must come to an end.
The 100km marker also signified a few other changes for us. The trails are BUSY. We were used to days out in the meseta where we did not see anyone during the entire walk. Today we were surrounded by dozens of people. There was still enough of a gap that we didn't feel overwhelmed but there was also no moment there wasn't someone a few feet from us.
With the crowds we also have more commercialism along the route. A friend on the Camino referred to these shops as s##t shops because it is filled with junk made in China to sell to tourists. This is a change from where we started. In the beginning of our trek most items for sale at the markets were made locally by artisans.
With all the new people and changes in the route we have decided that each person does what they can on the Camino and pray we find a place to sleep the next few nights till we get to Santiago.
Triacastela to Sarria
This morning began with a peaceful fog. We spent most of the morning in cool mountain air walking along nice trails. We made a pitstop for ugh café and found a place that made fresh tortilla. Yum!!! Afted Carson and I made it for dinner last night we decided we are missing something. To be determined after a few more authentic tortillas... The town we stopped in had cows going for a walk. One of the coolest yet grossest things about Galica is the cow poo everywhere. There seems to be a commonality of washing it down the trail and we are so lucky to get to walk through their daily disposing. Eww.
Today we took a short day of only 11.5 miles. This quickly heightened our spirits and helped us see some extra Spanish culture. We stayed in Sarria, the town of 100k before Santiago, where loads of people will be droning into the end. There is an expectation to finish the camino officially, you must walk the last 100.
We treated ourselves to Italian pizza and sangria with Bryan from Brooklyn and crew. It was expensive, but delicious. It is nice to reconnect with great friends from before we started our pilgrimage to now. We feel like we have grown together in this incredible experience.
Bedbugs gross me out. There has been more talk of them as we get into bigger cities with more people.
100k mark on the trail comes tomorrow. This means more and more people... church, school and tour groups trying to start before the official final leg to earn their pilgrims certificate. We are always amazed by the people hiking the stages before us in France and the newbies on the trail. There is such a variety of experiences on the camino.
Carson loves eating fruit. One fun fact about today is he found an apple, pear, plum, grapes and cherries in about a 2 minute span. None were quite ripe yet, or I may never get him out of Spain. Such a fun way to snack along the way!!!!!!!
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